Маленькое дерево бонсай кармона на окне

Among the most fascinating hobbies is that the raising of trees from seeds sown directly in a shallow container. Bonsai for beginners can be a most satisfying undertaking. If the seedlings are permitted to grow for a couple of years, they look like a tiny forest; the exact same may be achieved with cuttings, which frequently create beautiful bonsai specimens.

Containers

These trees and shrubs may be sown directly in shallow containers or boxes, less than four inches in thickness; Japanese maples, birches, beeches, Pomegranate, Yeddo Spruce, pines and a number of other conifers; also Wex-Tree (Rhus succedanea), Lacquer-Tree (Rhus ver-niciflua), Maidenhair Tree (Oinkgo M-loba), Cryptomeria japonica, Ilex serrata and Zelkova serrata.

When the young seedlings are established they could be transplanted thickly to another shallow container or independently into a pot. The only implanted ones in thumb pots should be changed to slightly larger pots every two or three decades. Two or three such transplantings ought to be enough.

Pinching

During the growing period pinching off growing tips shouldn’t be neglected- otherwise, whether seedlings or older dwarfs, the trees will be unsightly in shape and long branches will be generated. Generally, pinching is practiced and starts when young shoots are an inch or so long. Only a couple of leaves are permitted to remain on any 1 branch.

In the case of conifers such as spruces and pines, pinching ought to be performed as the soft new branches stretch and start to reveal their new needles. Every new twig ought to be pinched back, except those desired to enhance form or to fill a gap; just a little elongated shoot should stay, where the buds are formed. Unsightly or deformed dwarfed potted trees, frequently found at the novice’s house, are in most cases the result of wrong pinching or neglect of pinching.

Bonsai for beginners involves choosing densely twigged trees such as elm, walnut, pomegranate and zelkova, and pinching them throughout the growing period whenever the twigs attain a couple of inches in length. Always remember to retain a couple of leaves on each branch.

The flowering shrubs like azalea, enkianthus, rose, quince and lavender, or fringe-tree and crabapple, in spite of the preceding, shouldn’t be pinched even softly. Pinching back of those varieties removes the flower buds and prevents flowering.

The weeping willow and tamarix trained in weeping form are better if all of the new twigs are cut off in the midst of spring. When new growth begins again, – the weeping branchlets which are produced will be more slender and fragile.

Varieties

Now, I feel it’s much better to choose a few trees that would likely be of interest to readers and attempt to describe in a few words the crucial points on their civilization.

Flowering Cherries

Japanese flowering cherries are nicer as backyard trees but sometimes recognized garden varieties are appealing as dwarfed potted trees. In dwarfing these trees, the general practice is no pinching or pruning. Among the flowering cherries, the best is Primus incisa and its varieties. This densely-twigged dwarf tree is extremely lovely with small single blooms. Prunus kurilensis is great, also. Over-watering may kill the entire plant or destroy the majority of the branches.

Flowering Crabapples

Among the most popular is Hall’s Crabapple, known for over a hundred years in American households. The tree is easily trained to one or two feet in height by bending or bending the long shoots. So trained, these produce many flowering spurs and become very floriferous. Every spring the trees are a gorgeous sight with their beautiful rose-colored blooms hanging on long, slender, red flower stalks.

Final Word

Fanciers love the trees of Malus baccata var. Hondoensis with copious little bright fruits, Malus prunifolia and its varieties with yellow or reddish fruits, and Malus sieboldi, all of them understood in American households for several years. If bushy growth is wanted, all or almost all of the leaves on the present growth ought to be chosen off in summer time; afterward every auxiliary bud comes into growth. In the fall the sprouted twigs are shortened to two or three buds.